Archive for February, 2010

Friday, February 19th, 2010 - by - No Comments

lunigiana hives producing chestnut honeyI was happy to hear recently that The best honey in Italy comes from Lunigiana. My neighbor makes some dynamite chestnut honey just outside my window. His hives look like, well, that’s them over there to the right (click to see them bigger).

The only DOP honey in all of Italy comes from the Lunigiana.

Italy is the only country in the world able to produce, thanks to its geographic position and its orography that determine particular climatic conditions, more than 30 different types of valuable honey. The only honey to have obtained the Dop label is the honey of the Lunigiana. ~ Many types of honey

The two DOP types of honey, acacia honey and chestnut honey, are at opposite ends of the color and taste scales. Last spring I was able to taste for the first time the Lunigiana DOP acacia honey. It’s light in color and has a delicate vanilla and flowers taste. Italians, the seller told me, take spoons of it for their health. In earlier times it was used as a general sweetener.

Chestnut honey is dark, rich, and fuller flavored, with a slightly bitter aftertaste. I like it drizzled over my Greek style yogurt in the morning.

Head over to the Lunigiana for some honey. Stay for some castles and maybe a worker’s lunch at one of our favorite restaurants.

Note: The Lunigiana produces great honey in part due to the lack of pollution. That is, there’s none of that icky, smoggy stuff and there’s very little of that other, unspoken pollution, the invasion of the corporate crap products like the Bayer CropScience AG’s insecticide Proteus that’s killing France’s bees

Odd what connections come up when you blog about beloved and furry pets masquerading as food for the down and out (see On Tuscans Eating Cat if you can stomach it). Mike, a reader who keeps me from reasonable hours of sleep by twisting together new paths in my neural network (or something), brings up the song Creuza de Ma by the Genoese cantautore Fabrizio De Andre. It’s a beautiful song in Genoa dialect that mentions going into a tavern to eat a dish characterized by “an apparently widely known phrase (in Italian), ‘Lepre di Tegole’ – rabbit of the roof tiles, i.e. cat.”

Whatever you think of De Andre’s pasticcio in agrodolce di lepre di tegole—baked tubes of pasta with sweet-sour “hare of the roof tiles” or cat—the song is a fabulously meaty one about those odd intersections—between the sea and land, between the normal and the odd, between the endless voyages of the mariner and “normal folk”. So the food the mariner imagines sitting down to at the casa dell’Andrea alternates between normal and odd:

fried little fishes
sheep brains
lasagna with 4 sauces
baked pasta with cat

which reflect the oddness of the life of the mariner, the endless traveler trying to return to his roots, or trying, at least, to ferret out what is normal about those imagined roots. I go through it every time I return to my ancestral home, Illinois, from Italy. The food is certainly a bit different there. And white. Very, very white. And the meals are wineless. All very odd.

In any case, hear the song sung in the Genoese dialect: italian music: creuza de mä

Thursday, February 18th, 2010 - by - 4 Comments

At this time last year, Italy’s judiciary issued a warning.  The judges stated that there were signs that levels of corruption, a problem which has long dogged Italy, were once again upon the increase.

Sadly, this prediction, which I wrote about on Blog from Italy last year, has become reality.  In 2009, incidences of corruption in Italy rose by a staggering 229% over 2008 levels.

Mario Ristuccia, the General Prosecutor of Italy’s Corta dei Conti, or ‘State Auditors’ Department’, warned that such high levels of corruption might put off those considering investing in Italy.

A Gift

A small gift

It’s a worrying situation, but it does appear as though corruption is pretty much endemic in Italy. Recently corruption scandals surrounding G8 construction works, and the ‘quake rebuilding works in Abruzzo have rocked Italy.  Fresh stories of skulduggery seem to reach the Italian press virtually daily.

As has been said before, Italy’s national sport is not football, but tax evasion, well it’s starting to look as though the beautiful game may be pushed into third place by another Italian ‘pastime’.

Here is a semi tongue in cheek look at why corruption levels are likely to remain high in Italy, and what might have started the ball rolling.  Downhill.

Ten Reasons Why Corruption Exists in Italy

1. It gets very hot. It’s true, in summer Italy becomes a sauna.  Nobody can be bothered to do much, especially not filling in forms or much that passes for work.  The country slows down.  How can one help things move forward once more?  Easy.  Globs of money can act as a suitable lubricant and can help speed things up.

The hotter it gets in Italy; read the further south you go; the higher the number of incidences of corruption tend to be.

2. Italy is horribly bureaucratic. Myriads of silly little rules and regulations can make the simplest of tasks take ages to get done here.  The heat does not help either.  All it takes is one swift payment to cut through years of red tape.

3. Italy is cliquey. Groups of businessmen band together and make it difficult for others to do anything without ‘approval’.  How can such approval be obtained?  Simple.  Hand over a few suitcase-loads of cash.  Thumbs up guaranteed.

4. Italians need help from their friends. It’s easy to see why.  Just read reasons 1 to 3 above.  Sons and daughters can be given a leg up by ‘friends’.  Assistance from such ‘friends’ becomes swift and much more generous upon the promise of a donations and gifts.  Degrees and jobs are often obtained in this way (Perhaps the Royal Family in Britain could possibly be accused of using its influence to lubricate access into top flight universities such as Oxford and Cambridge? – This is not an entirely Italian phenomenon.).

A big gift

A big gift

5. It starts in the cradle. ‘Facciamo un patto’ – ‘Let’s make a deal’ – is not a phrase which comes from some bugged telephone converation which took place between two devious Italian businessmen.  No, it’s a phrase my Italian other half often uses to persuade our little son to do something.  For our son, the bribe is no more than some toy or gift, but one can see how such ‘toys’ and ‘gifts’ might become larger and larger until they become life-size.

Of course, this reason could have its origins in number 1.  Heat and motherhood do not good bedfellows make.

6. Nothing really changes.  Possibly related to the heat, and the complexity, is the fact that change in Italy is a slow process.  How do we accelerate matters?  Dangle a carrot.

7. Everybody is at it. Some businessmen may well argue, ‘Well, if I don’t, he will, and I will lose out’.  Preemptive bribe time.

8. Recipients encourage it. Pay levels in Italy can be a little on the low side, especially in the private sector.  Wife wants a fur coat, son wants an new car, daughter wants bigger boobs, and recipient does not have enough money to keep everybody satisfied.  Time for the classic words, ‘Well, perhaps we could come to some arrangement.’  The backhander ball starts rolling.

9. Italian banks won’t give anybody overdrafts or loans. Someone needs money, someone else wants something doing, and offers money to get it done.  Instant bank balance improvement, and no repayments!  Related to 8 above.

10.  Nobody pays up on time. Those 30, 60, and 90 day settlement periods all too often become 300, 600, and 900 days in Italy.  In the meantime one has got to live, pay for cosmetic surgery, and eat.  If someone comes along and makes you an offer you cannot refuse which will help you sort out your dreadful cashflow, you are unlikely to say no.

And so it goes on.  One big vicious circle.

Other suggestions, or denials, greatly welcomed.  And yes, I am aware that Italy is not the only corrupt place on the planet, just in case you were wondering.

For the record, someone once tried to offer me a bribe.  I told my boss.  Funny, I often wondered how he managed to afford that Ferrari… ;)

Blog from Italy February 16 2009: Italian News Roundup

Reuters Italia February 17 2010: Corte Conti: corruzione in netto aumento nel 2009 State Auditors’ Department: net increase in corruption in 2009 – in Italian

Photograph: Knatterboot by Kolling http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benutzer:Kolling


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Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 - by - No Comments

Perhaps you have heard of the latest incident of Politically Incorrectness that has raised the hackles of Italians. It involves a television host who dared reveal the traditional eating of cats by those who didn’t have other meat to fry at carnevale time. By traditional I mean 60 years ago. Lean times in Tuscany. And the carne in carnevale means meat, remember, so these folks were being left out of the party.

(Yes, even Italians tend to kill the messenger, the storyteller. Shame. What will become of us?)

I have personally had dealings with cat-related eating issues. I made the mistake of inviting my Italian neighbors over for gumbo last fall. I didn’t want to make anything with seafood because one of them didn’t eat it. So I thought of rabbit. Rabbit is plentiful in Tuscan markets, so I went to the market and bought one.

Now, you certainly know by now that when Italians speak of food, they don’t hold anything back. By the time I was ready to dip the ladle into the gumbo, we had already had the discussion about rabbits…and cats.

You see, we were informed that the locals sourced their rabbit carefully, otherwise one might go home with something anatomically similar. Like a cat.

Of course, I remembered the old days, when any rabbit you might buy came with an intact, furry head with ears. If you even wondered why, now you know.

Modern folks, especially city folks who are getting more and more divorced from the source of what they eat, don’t like knowing that they’re eating rabbit or any other “cute” animal. So, the practice that assured them they were getting rabbit went away so more rabbit could be sold. But then it was much easier and more profitable to sell cat, I suppose, and Italy has more private entrepreneurs than you can ever imagine…

Returning to the original story, the television host was fired for revealing a tradition popular 60 years ago. Odd, isn’t it? But the video showing this unspeakable transgression is online, translated, and quite entertaining. You must see it: Italy and its gastrocraze over the tuscan cat expression

Buon Appetito!

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 - by - No Comments

In some areas of hilly and mountainous Italy, landslides are not uncommon.  Indeed yesterday in Maierato in the Calabrian province of Vibo Valentia the earth moved.

Someone was there to catch the event on film and a video of this landslide made it onto YouTube, and I’ve added it for you to see.  I found it frightening.

The causes are not yet known, but investigators are looking into whether human intervention may have played a part.

Here is the video.

Landslide in Maierato in the Calabrian province Vibo Valentia

Click here to view the embedded video.

This is where the landslide occurred – use the “-” sign to zoom out so you can understand where this is in Italy:

Italy

Landslide is ‘frana’ in Italian.  If you are hunting for a house in Italy in an uphill area, ask a few questions about the area and find out if it is susceptible to landslides.   Be suspicious  if the price of your dream property appears to be very low.

Landslides can sweep houses away in the blink of an eye.


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